Makati’s hidden Italian gem

By Stephanie Maureen F. Asi,

01/04/2009

Located at the corner of Valero and Rufino streets, with an entrance that is within another building, Il Ponticello is a hidden culinary destination that charms both its loyal diners and newly acquainted guests. Finding Il Ponticello’s almost hidden entrance is part of the experience of dining there.

Going up the staircase, you’ll see writings on the wall — quotations that are painted against the board of the staircase, reminiscent of the quaint Italian restaurants that line the streets of Venice. Once you get inside, you’ll find that there is a spacious restaurant-bar that offers sumptuous meals that will take you to Italy. The ambiance is homey, but polished, with cozy seating and subdued lighting. You’ll never think that just beyond the thoroughfares of the busy Makati City, there is this epicurean treasure.

To its loyal patrons, Il Ponticello is fondly called Ponti, a favorite hangout, a sanctuary if you will, filled with sumptuous dishes and exciting cocktails. Ten years into the business and Ponti isn’t putting its spoons down.

Literally translated as “little bridge,” Il Ponticlello has served as a bridge for the Philippines and Italy through its dishes. Their original menu lists authentic Italian cuisine done in true Italian fashion. Favorites in the menu are lamb ravioli, four-chesse pizza, Gorgonzola pizza, boscaiola risotto, grilled sea bass and asparagina pasta. Proof to the owners’ passion for Italian food is also Ponti’s regional food festivals held quarterly to showcase the different regions of Italy.

While they have been offering Italian cuisine for the past decade now, Ponti wishes to add modern Italian food to their repertoire as well, broadening the little bridge that it has of Italy and making it extend to different cuisines as well. The old favorites still remain, but the new dishes added to the roster and are found in their Rinascimento menu are bound to spice up your impression of Italian cuisine.

I was fortunate to have been invited to special lunch in Ponti and like Julies Caesar, I came, I saw and I conquered. I was more than happy to conquer the platters full of steaming, scrumptious dishes. Of course, owners Albert Besa and Patrick Santos wanted us to try their new offerings, but being a newbie in the resto, they treated me to their classics.

I couldn’t pass up the chance to dig in when the Ravioli D’Agnello pasta was served. The red sauce tasted of heaps of tomatoes, but it was cheesy as well. The ravioli was al dente, and once I took a bite of it, it burst with the distinct flavor of lamb that went well with the flavorful sauce. I also had their four-cheese pizza. Albert informed that it was part of their original menu from way back 1998. No surprise there because it tasted great with the flavors of the different cheeses creating a palatable, cheesy fusion.

Although those two may have sufficed for me, the stars of that afternoon’s lunch really took my breath away. Inventive was probably what I would’ve initially used to describe it to anyone who asked, but it was clever and delicious as well. Our meal started off with a cold appetizer. The duck terrina di anitra ruspante e fichi glassati featured two main ingredients: Duck and mango. It had a tender duck meat that was complimented by the tangy flavor of the mango chutney. Albert revealed that the reason why the duck was so tender was because it was marinated and simmered until the meat fell off the bone, a part of the three-day process it took to cook this dish.

Following closely was the insalata di rucola e mele or apple and pine nuts salad that featured the mixture of pine nuts, lettuce and apple drizzled with honey balsamic sauce. Each bite was highlighted with a crunch from the pine nuts and the sweet, sour flavor of the honey balsamic dressing.

Most interesting of all the dishes was the carpaccio di polipo e sott’oli di casa, a salad that had a special and rather unlikely ingredient — octopus. Even more interesting was the way the octopus was presented. It was cut into small circles (its tentacles, I believe) and placed underneath the crispy green veggies. The result was a salad unlike one I’ve never seen or tasted, giving hints of seafood taste to the veggies. These appetizers have certainly started to entice my appetite, but the main dishes sealed the deal.

I didn’t know that there was pasta in the dish, until Patrick told us that there was. The rotolo al salmone affumicato was like the other dishes, something that I haven’t tasted anywhere else. It featured salmon, cheese and pasta all rolled into one, with the cheese and salmon squeezed inside the rolled up pasta. It had a myriad of flavors in just a spoonful. Salmon immediately tickled the taste bud with its distinct flavor. It also caught the eye as well with its unique color. But then, the burst of cheese became distinctive, balancing off the flavor of the salmon. You’ll have to really be a connoisseur to distinguish the pasta because it almost melts in your mouth.

Meanwhile, the branzino tartufato e risotto rosso included a sapid seabass flanked with risotto, which can be likened to our rice, but moister and with bigger grains. The beetroot gave it an interesting color that appealed to the senses. It also went well with the seabass that has a soft fish meat. The salty, flavorful taste of the meat and the filling contrast of the risotto were delectable.

With their inventive, sumptuous menu and their equally exciting cocktails, Ponti makes sure that they belong to the list of favorite food destinations and hangouts of Manila’s most discriminating palates.

Il Ponticello is located at the Second Floor of Antel 2000 Building, 121 Valero St. cor. Rufino St., Salcedo Village Makati. You can call 8877-168 or 887-4998.

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